CRETE ISLAND
Crete (Kríti) is a great deal more than just another Greek island. In many places, especially in the cities or along the developed north coast, it doesn’t feel like an island at all, but rather a substantial land in its own right. Which of course it is – a precipitous, wealthy and at times surprisingly cosmopolitan one with a tremendous and unique history. At the same time, it has everything you could want of a Greek island and more: great beaches, remote hinterlands and hospitable people.
With enough land for agriculture (and some surprisingly good vineyards), it’s one of the few Greek islands that could probably support itself without visitors. Nevertheless, tourism is an important part of the economy, particularly exploited along the north coast, where many resorts cater almost exclusively to rowdy young revellers lured by thumping bars and cheap booze. The quieter, less commercialized resorts and villages lie at either end of the island – west, towards Haniá and the smaller, less well-connected places along the south and west coasts, or east around Sitía. The high mountains of the interior are still barely touched by tourism.
Of the cities, sprawling Iráklion often gives a poor first impression of the island but is well worth a visit for its excellent archeological museum. It’s also close to the fabulous Minoan sites of Knossos, Phaestos and Ayía Triádha to the south (with Roman Gortys to provide contrast). Further east, the upmarket resort of Áyios Nikólaos provides sophisticated restaurants and hotels, while quiet, lazy Sitía is a perfect base for exploring the eastern coastline. Heading west, Réthymnon boasts a pretty old town and an excellent beach, though Haniá in the extreme west arguably beats it in terms of style and atmosphere. South of here is the Samariá Gorge, one of the best hikes in the country.
In terms of climate, Crete has by far the longest summers in Greece, and you can get a decent tan here right into October and swim at least from May until early November. The one seasonal blight is the meltémi, a northerly wind, which regularly blows harder and more continuously here than anywhere else in Greece – the locals may welcome its cooling effects, but it’s another reason (along with crowds and heat) to avoid an August visit if you can.
Brief history
Crete is distinguished above all as the home of Europe’s earliest civilization, the Minoans. They had a remarkably advanced society, and formed the centre of a maritime trading empire as early as 2000 BC. The island’s strategic position between east and west has since continued to play a major role in its history. Control of the island passed from Greeks to Romans to Saracens, through the Byzantine empire to Venice, and finally to Turkey for more than two centuries. During World War II, Crete was occupied by the Germans and attained the dubious distinction of being the first place to be successfully invaded by paratroops.
EXPLORE CRETE ISLAND
The hub of central Crete is the capital city, Iráklion, a busy but convenient base for visits to the nearby Minoan palace of Knossos. The area immediately around the city is less touristy than you might expect, mainly because there are few decent beaches of any size on the adjacent coast. To the west, mountains drop straight into the sea virtually all the way to Réthymnon, with just two significant coastal settlements: Ayia Pelayia, and the more attractive Bali. Eastwards, the main resorts are at least 30km away, at Hersónissos and beyond, although there is a string of rather unattractive developments all the way there. Inland, there’s agricultural country, some of the richest on the island, a cluster of Crete’s better vineyards and a series of wealthy villages. To the south lie the sites of Gortys, Phaestos and Ayía Triádha which can all be visited in a day, with a lunchtime swim on the south coast at Mátala or Léndas thrown in.
Hidden gems of Heraklion
The Museum of Natural History: interactive fun for all ages:
Under the auspices of the University of Crete, it consists of five departments – Zoological, Botanical, Anthropological, Geological-Paleontological and Mineralogical. The collections include samples from Greece and the Mediterranean in general.
Historical Museum: Crete ‘preserved in amber’:
This impressive modern museum is housed in an elegant, 20th-century building. It has a diverse number of permanent exhibitions, including the Byzantine and Post-Byzantine Collection, the Numismatic Collection, the Ceramics and Sculpture section, the Nikos Kazantzakis rooms and the Ethnographic Collection.
In the heart of the city:
The pedestrian Daedalus shopping street, full of designer stores, connects Lionadarakia and Eleftherias squares. Walking west from the lion fountain, you enter the wide pedestrian Handakos Street, saturated with more shops and cafes.
The province of Réthymnon reaches to Mount Psilorítis in the east and towards the White Mountains in the west. The fertile Amari Valley, with its pretty villages, lies in the central plain, while on the south coast, in particular around Plakiás, there are beaches as fine as any Crete can offer.
Réthymnon itself is an attractive and lively city, with some excellent beaches nearby, although the coastline to the east has seen a great influx of tourists, with the development of a whole series of large hotels extending almost 10km along the beach.
Hidden gems of Rethymno
The Fortezza: built for war, dedicated to culture:
The restored residence of two Venetian Councillors, the Ottoman mosque built by Sultan Ibrahim Khan (now hosting musical events), the Bishop’s Palace, the Ibrahim Khan Mosque, cannons, bastions, mansions… are just a few of the attractions that await you at the Fortezza, a 16th century fortress. Many of the restored buildings host exhibitions and major cultural events, such as the annual Renaissance Festival.
Museums with centuries of discoveries:
The Palaeontology Museum is well worth a visit during your holiday in Rethymno. Inside the mosque of Veli Pasha you’ll find exhibits from Crete’s history from up to 300 million years ago. Be sure to also make time for the Historical and Folklore Museum, situated in a 17th-century manor house, and the Archaeological Museum, opposite the main gate of the Fortezza.
Sunset by the seaside:
As the sun is setting, take a walk by the sea along Kefalogianni St., beneath the sturdy fortified walls enclosing the Town Square and through the old neighbourhood of Toube. Sunset in Rethymno is an experience that will remain with you forever.
Eastern Crete is dominated by Áyios Nikólaos, a small cosmopolitan town and resort, and its close neighbour Eloúnda, the home of luxury hotel and villa complexes, and the gateway to the mysterious islet of Spinalónga. Inland from Áyios Nikólaos, Kritsá with its famous frescoed church and textile sellers and the imposing ruins of ancient Lato make for good excursions. Further inland, the extraordinary Lasíthi Plateau is worth a night’s stay if only to observe its abidingly rural life. Far fewer people venture beyond the road south to Ierápetra and east to Sitía, where only the famous beach at Váï ever sees anything approaching a crowd.
Hidden gems of Elounda
Crete’s villages: beauty in simplicity:
Following the route from Elounda towards the west, you’ll have the opportunity to admire the tranquil beauty of the gulf of Elounda that looks almost like a lagoon. Its calm waters and fishing boats will charm you first, and then you’ll see the beautiful island of Spinalonga that sits at the edge of the gulf. Across from Spinalonga you’ll find the picturesque fishing village of Plaka.
Wander around its cobblestone streets and enjoy some of the best fish in the area at the tavernas along the water. Then travel past the abandoned village of Havgas, with a panoramic view of the gulf, and on to the untouched villages of Kastelli and Fourni. Don’t miss the restored Aretiou Monastery with its manicured garden – it is one of the most significant attractions in the area.
The Splendour of Ancient Minoan Olous:
Just 10km from Agios Nikolaos you can visit the site of one of the 100 most important cities of ancient Crete, with a population of more than 30,000 inhabitants. Here they worshipped Zeus Tallaeus, the goddess Artemis Britomartys and Apollo.
The town of Agios Nikoloas:
The beautiful town of Agios Nikolaos embraces the picturesque lake, and is lined with neoclassical homes, restaurants, bars and shops. The setting is reminiscent of a typical Greek island: it is worth wandering around the town, stopping to enjoy a drink near the marina. In the heart of the town you’ll encounter an exceptional port that has been annually awarded a Blue Flag for its clean waters.
Crete’s westernmost quarter is one of its least visited, partly because there are no big sandy beaches to accommodate resort hotels, and partly because it’s so far from the great archeological sites. But for mountains, scattered coves and unexploited villages, it’s unrivalled.
The city of Haniá (Chania) is an excellent reason to come here, but the immediately adjacent coast, especially to the west of the city, is overdeveloped and not particularly exciting; if you want beaches head for the south coast or the far west. Here, Paleóhora is the only place which could really be described as a resort, and even this is on a thoroughly human scale; others are emptier still. Elsewhere on the south coast, Ayía Rouméli and Loutró can be reached only on foot or by boat; Hóra Sfakíon sees hordes passing through but few who stay; Frangokástello, nearby, has a beautiful castle and the first stirrings of development. Behind these lie the White Mountains (Lefká Óri) and the famed walk through the Samariá Gorge. In the far west, great beaches at Falásarna and Elafoníssi are mostly visited only as day-trips.
Hidden gems of Chania
Hora Sfakion, Loutro, and Frangokastello:
You’ll arrive at Hora Sfakion travelling south from Chania through the beautiful Aradaina Gorge. Discover history and the legend surrounding the impressive castle of Frangokastello, built by the Venetians in 1371. In May 1866 a bloody battle took place here, between Mustafa Pasha’s soldiers and 338 of Hatzimichalis Dalianis’ warriors. Legend has it that every May, on the battle’s anniversary, the Drosoulites appear as shadows of the corpses of the heroic warriors.
Centre of Mediterranean Architecture and Chania’s museums:
This hidden but important cultural centre, with exceptional exhibitions and events, is housed in the Grand Arsenal. The building was the last dry dock erected by the Venetians in 1600 and its rebuilding began in 1941. As for the museums, be sure to put them all on your itinerary: the Archaeological Museum, the Byzantine and Post-Byzantine Collection, the Nautical Museum of Crete (the second oldest in Greece), the Typography Museum in the Park of Local Industries, and the Arts & Crafts village in Souda with its ceramic, mosaic, silversmith and glass-blowing workshops.
The cobblestones of the old town:
This is where you’ll encounter local tradition and folklore. Tabakaria is the centre for traditional leather production. At Skrydlof street (also called Leather Lane), you will find the traditional high Cretan boots called stivania. In Karaoli Dimitriou, you can buy authentic Cretan knives, but beware of imitations: the real thing doesn’t cost less than 200 euros.
